It is frequently said the Nose route on El Capitan is the best rock climb in the world. I'd climbed El Cap a number of times before I finally got around to the Nose, but it is as good as everyone says. Both times I've climbed it have been in the middle of summer, when its generally too hot. But Holly and I scored the route all to ourselves under the cover of forest fire smoke, and Tony and I did the same during a strange cold spell. We had actually hiked up to the Hulk to climb Positive Vibes, but couldn't take our hands out of gloves at the base, so we quickly hiked out and drove straight to the valley and got on the Nose for a 2 day ascent in perfect temps!
Tony starting up the Stovelegs. Seven hells, these pitches are good!
If I remember correctly, I lead up to Sickle ledge, then Tony lead the first of the stoveleg pitches. This is the first pitch after Sickle, with the pendulum out right.
Woot!
Tony leading up the great roof.
This is Tony cleaning the pitch that heads over to camp 4, where we bivied. With no sleeping bags or pads it was still OK.
Looking down the huge dihedral at the top. I like this image because you can tell it was windy - it seems to always be blowing up the cliff.
From the top. That view of halfdome is always a treat.
Sadly, I never climbed this route in a day, though it was always high on my list. At one point I was honed and ready, but ended up on Lurking Fear with my buddy Jim Barnes instead.
